Cooked Bones for Dogs: Safe or Not?

There are many pet owners who still believe that feeding cooked bones to their dogs is completely fine. They also believe that cooked bones are natural and healthy and that dogs simply love chewing on them. It is true that a dog will most likely chew on a cooked bone, but that does not mean that it is healthy or safe for him.

However, cooked bones are unsafe no matter what their size or origin, and they can not only hurt your dog’s internal organs but also lead him to experience an agonizing death. There are some vets that believe that raw bones are unsafe too, and this article will provide you with some of the facts related to the consequences of feeding cooked bones to your pets and the benefits of switching to raw bones.

THE CONSEQUENCES OF FEEDING COOKED BONES

If you have been wondering whether dogs can eat cooked bones, then you should know that yes, they can, but they certainly should not. That is because cooked bones have no nutritional value and they are dangerous because they can splinter and pierce your pet’s internal organs which can lead to death.

When you cook a bone, its structure changes, which makes it become indigestible and breakable. There is not even one benefit of feeding cooked bones to your dog. That means that the dog can just harm himself by trying to chew on the bone that can potentially kill him.

Some of the consequences of feeding cooked bones to dogs are:

• Your dog can easily break his teeth by trying to stubbornly chew on a cooked bone. That is understandable, especially if a dog is hungry and his owner provided him only with cooked bones, thinking foolishly that cooked bones are enough. This means that your dog may have to go through some expensive dentistry at the vet.
• The dog can also get his tongue or mouth pierced by a splintered cooked bone, which will mean that a trip to the vet is a must, not to mention how painful it can be.
• A cooked bone can get stuck in a dog’s lower jaw and not only frighten him but also injury him.
• Another possibility is that a bone can get stuck in windpipe, which can happen if a dog somehow inhales a very small piece of bone and it can lead to him being unable to breathe normally.
• A cooked bone can get stuck in esophagus, which is the tube that food goes through in order to reach the stomach. This may cause gagging and surgery.
• A bone can get stuck in stomach, which means that the bone is too big and it gets stuck before going into the intestines. This means that your dog will need a surgery or upper gastrointestinal endoscopy.
• Your dog gets a cooked bone stuck in intestines which causes a blockage and it will certainly lead to a surgery.
• Bone fragments cause constipation because they are probably too sharp and they scrape the insides of rectum or the large intestine as they move along. This is, as you can imagine, very painful and it will require a visit to the vet.
• Peritonitis is a very difficult bacterial infection of the abdomen and they appear when small bone fragments poke holes in a dog’s stomach or intestines. It can be fatal and it is usually difficult to treat, so your dog must be taken to a vet.
• Bones can cause severe bleeding from the rectum or even internal bleeding as they pierce the internal organs.

IF YOUR DOG HAS ALREADY EATEN A COOKED BONE

If your dog has somehow got a hold of a cooked chicken carcass or any other cooked bone, before you start to panic, and before you rush your mischievous pet to the vet, there are some things that you should be aware of.

First, you should check out your dog’s behavior. If he starts gagging, vomiting, drinking water excessively, licking his lips, coughing, pacing anxiously or he cannot sit, then that means that a piece of a cooked bone has been stuck in his throat or it is causing pain in his stomach. In this case you should know that taking your dog to the vet is a must.

However, if your furry friend has already eaten a cooked bone, ingested it and shows no signs of choking, coughing or experiencing any kind of pain, then it is possible that he will be just fine. Nevertheless, it is very important that you monitor his behavior during the next couple of days. That means that you should make sure to see if he is able to pass the bone through his stool or that he is not bleeding from his rectum.

Another signs that you should be aware of are: difficulty defecating, stomach swelling, vomiting, nervousness or anxious behavior. If your pooch shows any of these symptoms during the next 12 to 48 hours, then you should immediately seek the medical attention; or if there are no signs of bone fragments in his stool after 72 hours, you should go to the vet too.

After everything is over, you should remember that an ounce of prevention is better than a pound of cure and that means that you should keep a better eye on your furry friend, so he does not get into trouble by eating something that he should not.

COOKED BONES VS RAW BONES

Unlike cooked bones, which have already mentioned above as being very dangerous, raw bones have been a part of dogs’ diets for a very long time and probably from the very beginning. Today’s dogs that are kept as pets share the same characteristics of their predecessors, and even though humans have modified various dog breeds to their liking, the basic nutrient requirements are the same.

However, a ground raw bone is a good source of calcium and phosphorus, having in mind that 70 % of the bone is minerals and only 30 % is composed of poorly digested collagen. Additionally, a raw ground bone does not present any risk whatsoever to the dog’s digestive track, while there is a risk if you feed a whole raw bone. The risk of infection from pathogens such as Salmonella and E. coli is another possible risk, especially if you do not know the source of the meat and bones you purchased.

There are two types of raw bones: edible and recreational. The edible ones are the hollow and non weight-bearing bones of birds (chicken wings and chicken and turkey necks). They are good because they can be crushed in a meat grinder and they do not have marrow. However, if you do not ground them, they can be dangerous because of their sharpness.

The recreational ones are the raw bones of beef or bison and they are good because they provide your dog with mental and dental exercises and reduce the risks of developing gum diseases. They do not have any special nutrients, but they are not breakable as cooked bones, and that means that they can be used as playthings. However, they should not be too hard, because if a dog is gnawing at them too much, he can also hurt his mouth.

All in all, feeding a ground raw bone seems to be the best and healthiest choice, and even though feeding a whole raw bone is risky, it is still a better choice than giving a cooked bone to your dog.

A GUIDELINE TO FEEDING RAW BONES

First of all, you should determine whether feeding raw bones to your dog is appropriate at all. That is because certain dog breeds cannot process bones at all and they are unable to gain the same benefits from them as the others. That is mostly because of their jaw bone structure and these dog breeds are called brachiocephalic and some of them are: Boxers, Bulldogs, Pugs, and Shih Tzu. These breeds have delicate jaw bone structures and softer teeth, so they are unable to eat raw bones.

You can also ask your vet to evaluate their upper and lower molars, the length of the muzzle to see if the mouth is in shape of handling a bone.

It also depends on your dog’s medical history in general – if he is not used to bones he may have problems with diarrhea or soft stool. Their bodies need time adjusting to raw bones, the same as with raw meat.

Secondly, as with the treats, you should never give raw bones before or during the full meal. The dog should never be starving when he is eating a bone, because he may start gnawing at it aggressively or trying to gulp it all at once. Also, big dog breeds such as Labradors, Shepherds or Dobermans should not eat cut or smaller bones because they would swallow them quickly. Bones should always be longer or larger than the length of the muzzle.

Another important thing is that you should always supervise and monitor your dog’s behavior during and after eating the bone. Do not give your dog a bone and then leave for work, for example. After the dog is finished, you must always check his mouth, teeth and gums so you can make sure there is no injury or bleeding.

TIPS FOR FEEDING BONES IN GENERAL

• Raw bones are safer than cooked bones, but you should still avoid the large ones from sheep and cows since they are the hardest and densest.
• The safest raw bones are raw or frozen chicken thighs, wings or backs. They are the softest ones, and you should avoid the hardest, even if they are raw.
• If you have a dog who is a gulper and not a chewer, then you should avoid giving him any bone, raw or not. It is just too risky.
• Some dog breeds (which are mentioned above) are not physically able to chew or eat bones, so they should not be given any.
• You can get raw bones from the supermarket or your butcher, so he or she can provide you with the best and softest cuts, because they know they are for your dogs.
• Always make sure to check on your pet as he is chewing the bone and after he is finished. Also do not forget to check his teeth and gum, especially if he is not used to raw bones yet.
• Chicken wings and chicken and turkey necks are better grounded, because they can be very sharp and dangerous to larger dog breeds. Also, they do not have marrow so they make a great choice for your dog.
• Do not feed your dog a cut or small bone, because they can be swallowed whole so they pose a risk of choking. A bone should be longer than a dog’s muzzle.
• The best alternative to raw bones is an edible dental bone of high quality.

To sum up, we mentioned in the article the consequences of feeding cooked bones to the dogs and came to the conclusion that there is not even one benefit of such bones.

Furthermore, they can be very dangerous because cooked bones are bristle, sharp and easily breakable which can lead to your dog choking or gagging on them. The sharp or broken ends of such bones can also pierce your pet’s internal organs and end up being fatal.

We also mentioned a difference between cooked and raw bones, and pointed out some benefits of grounded and whole raw bones. However, the most important thing is to remember that you should always monitor your dog during and after the eating so you can notice in time if he shows any signs of pain or discomfort. Your dog depends on you to give him the healthiest food possible and ensure his safety by giving him the appropriate portions and nutrients.

Read More

My Dog Ate A Sock: Helping Your Dog Get Over This Little Mistake

Life is never the same again once you get a dog. Each and every day holds the potential for another surprise and another thing to think about. Even though most surprises are pleasant, making you feel unconditionally loved, there are a few mishaps that can turn up from nowhere.

It might come as a surprise to you but you should know what to do and what to expect if you run with your dog into a vet’s office yelling “my dog ate a sock!”.

MITIGATING THE SITUATION BEFORE IT ESCALADES

So your dog ate a sock; it’s not the end of the world, it’s not that big of a deal… yet. There are quite a few ways in which you can go about it however, before we get to that, you should first of all try and diffuse the situation.

Dogs can have some weird tastes and most of the things that are so common that we don’t even think about in our day-to-day life, are new and exciting for them. As a result of that, some dogs can and indeed will take a more gourmand approach to these things, and every now and again will ingest something that they should not.

If a dog swallowed a sock, depending on the sock type and the size of your dog as well as the overall health of his or her digestive system, the outcomes can vary drastically. With that in mind, the last thing you want to do is alarm your dog and make him or her agitated.

So first and foremost, calm down, compose yourself and take a small breather to figure out what to do. Scold the dog, let him or her know that what he or she did was wrong and that it should not be done again in the future. However don’t freak out, otherwise you will freak the dog out as well and the last thing that you want to have on your hands in this situation is a panicked dog.

With that in mind, there are 3 main ways in which you can go about dealing with this situation and cause the dog to no longer have a sock in his or her system.

1. The natural way
2. The surgical way
3. The forced regurgitation way

These can and might work, however it is mostly dependent on the time that has passed since the sock has been ingested. Seeing that a sock is not digestible, there is no actual way to hope for it to actually have a benefit for your dog.

THE NATURAL WAY

The natural way is pretty much what it sounds like, simply wait for the sock to pass through the dog’s system and be eliminated naturally. The process can be sped up with laxatives.

This is for when the sock has been ingested quite some time before you found out. However it was a small sock, probably made out of hemp so it is not exactly toxic, and there are next to no chances of clumping up. It goes without saying that out of the 3 methods that you can adopt for this situation this one is by far the less invasive and the least stressful.

Do remember though that the sock will put a bit of strain on your dog’s body as it passes through him or her, so you can expect some moodiness, lack of cooperation and generally bad temper until the sock has passed.

Another thing that we should touch upon here is the usage of laxatives in this situation. It is more than likely that your pooch is at least a medium sized dog, and so the amount of food that he or she eats is rather significant. With that in mind, you can imagine how much food goes into the dogs stomach, and if you were to force it to pass through rapidly, like with a laxative, there are chances that the sock itself would be caught up in all the tumbling and all the matter flowing through and around it in such a way that it might clump up and actually clog the intestines of the dog.

This is a very dangerous situation to be in, and the last thing that you want to do is have to put your pet through surgery, so it is advised to consult a vet before resorting to laxatives in this situation.

THE SURGICAL WAY

This one is more or less self-explanatory. The dog is operated on and the sock removed directly from the stomach or intestines. The thing is with dogs, they don’t really handle surgery as well as we do, simply because of the way in which they walk, on all 4 legs.

That being said, their entire body is more or less used for movement, not just the lower parts like in our case. That, coupled with the fact that dogs tend to get fidgety quite often more or less constitutes a plausible recipe for disaster. This is why dogs need a lot of care and attention, as well as a lot of restraints after surgery so that they don’t pop their stitches.

Another reason for which this is not the preferred option for these kinds of situations is the fact that it is very invasive, not only making the dog face possible infections, side effects or complications, but also the experience in or itself will probably scar the dog for life, making him or her detest going to the vet in the future.

One last note that can be made here is the fact that this method is also costly. This is not about the actual financial cost but rather the fact that it is costly on the body of the dog in question. The aftermath of such an intervention will weaken the dog quite a bit, not to mention the fact that most of his or her organs, particularly the liver, will go into overdrive in order to try and keep the body itself safe, which is why there will be a period of tie after the intervention in which your dog will have to get some treatment and medication to help with the healing, which in turn stresses the body a bit as well.

THE FORCED REGURGITATION WAY

This one is by far the most commonly used, however it is quite risky, and if you are not careful you might end up hurting the poor dog. First, you must understand that it is a good idea to use this way if and only if the sock has been ingested right before you realized what was going on.

This is because this way it has the least chance of causing long term damage or actually starts being digested through the digestive tract.

In essence, you will be making your dog throw up, and the means of doing this are quite varied, mostly depending on the dog.

Strong word of warning though, if you have any hesitations, simply don’t do it and opt for one of the other 2 ways of dealing with the problem, because there is quite a big choking hazard involved, especially on the return trip up the esophagus and out the mouth. A dog’s throat is not exactly something you can reach into with your hand to pull it out.

But before we get to that point we must first figure out a way to make your dog blow chunks.

Two fingers down the throat

This is the most common way of inducing vomiting in humans and it works quite well with dogs as well. However, there is one small problem to solve while doing this: you still have to put your hand in a mouth full of teeth, and naturally the dog will try and resist you every single step of the way.

At certain points, the dog might even try and bite you in order to make you stop prodding down his or her throat. You can simply keep the mouth open by force and get someone to help you by forcing the mouth to stay open while you induce the sensation of vomiting.

A very disgusting thing

Just like us, dogs are disgusted by a few certain things, almost to the point of vomiting, and in fact if you become persistent with it, besides annoying the dog, you will actually make him or her vomit.

You will have to know what disgusts your dog beforehand though, because the same things that disgust us sometimes excite the dogs themselves or make them interested in that particular thing.

Vomiting solutions

There are quite a few products out there that can usually be found in vet and pet pharmacies that will make your dog throw up.

They are quite unpleasant to use and to be honest they will make you feel kind of bad for the dog, especially after he or she is done vomiting and then looks at you with a pair of big brown doggie eyes.

MAKING THE CALL

Ultimately, the decision will still remain yours, and the course of action will be set by you. However, do keep in mind that there might be unexpected and unforeseen consequences along the way.

The best thing that you can do in these situations is to go see a vet, talk to him or her and figure out something together. Also, something that should be common sense by now: get your dog’s stomach x-rayed to see what is going on in there as well as the orientation of the sock in order to see if the dog has a chance to eliminate it naturally, barf it out or if they should start prepping for doggy surgery.

Regardless, this is not the first nor will it be the last case of a dog eating a sock, and generally dogs don’t die as a result of this. They might suffer from some indigestion, get very gassy, maybe even have a bit of constipation for a few days, however chances are your dog is not in any immediate danger.

There is also the off chance that the sock itself gets tangled up either in the stomach or the intestines, in which case the dog needs to be operated upon immediately. Still, this is generally the case with dog breeds like the Great Dane, which have a more twisty and disproportionate digestive system.

In the end, it is better to be safe than sorry, and even though it will take time, even though it will cost money, even though both you and your dog will have to sacrifice a bit of comfort in order to do so, go to the veterinarian. Nothing will take them by surprise and chances are that no matter what problem you bring to them, they will be able to help both you and your dog in some manner as to solve it.

In conclusion, if your dog ate a sock, you will have to remain calm, plan out a course of action and then consult a vet in order to see if hat course of action is the right one before going about it.

Don’t worry though, if your dog managed to swallow that sock, chances are that after you have solved this problem, he or she will find many other things to swallow and eat. So there is no use getting worked up over this use at the moment.

Remember that even though you will have to go to some lengths in order to fix this issue, your dog will appreciate and love you for it in the long run.

Read More

Bloody Diarrhea In Dogs: The Whiff of Hell

It’s bad enough when your dog has diarrhea, but if you find blood in it things get a whole lot more complicated fast. And that’s because bloody diarrhea in dogs can indicate a serious condition, which can actually prove to be fatal. As such, we advise you to take your dog to the vet immediately if your see traces of blood in his stool.

However, in this article we’ll review the main symptoms and causes of this condition, as well as give you an insight about what questions the vet will ask you to establish a diagnosis, what the actual diagnosis tests are and what you can expect treatment-wise.

RELATED SYMPTOMS

Apart from your dog’s bloody diarrhea, you can also notice some other symptoms:

• Sluggishness.
• Inactivity.
• Lack of appetite.
• Weight loss.
• Dehydration.
• Fluid loss.
• Electrolyte imbalance.
• Hemoconcentration.
• Hypovolemic shock.

If your dog isn’t feeling well, of course he won’t feel as energetic and playful as usual. Moreover, if his condition is caused by a pathogen or by a more serious affection as ulcer or cancer, he will definitely need to rest more, which is why you’ll see an increase in his hours of sleep. He will also be more inactive and sluggish than normal when he’s awake too; after all, he’s suffering and he’s probably in pain as well.

Since he could be affected by a pathogen, his body will try to expel the negative influence by starving itself and that, combined with a lethargic disposition, will cause your dog to eat less. If, on the other hand, your dog has a more serious illness like cancer, the toxins in his body will actually make him nauseous at the sight or smell of food.

This lack of appetite can lead to a dramatic weight loss, which is not a good sign at all. You want your dog strong, in order for his body to be able to fight whatever is making him feel so bad. Besides, if your dog is not eating properly, then he probably isn’t drinking the necessary amount of water either.

Fluid loss is even worse than weight loss, because it can lead to dehydration and electrolyte imbalance. If your dog is dehydrated, then his body can’t get the amount of energy it needs to function at optimum levels. That will make him weaker, and he will have less force to fight his condition. In fact he may end up in a vicious circle, where a pathogen or other illness is making him feel bad in order to expel the vicious catalyst, while his lethargy is actually aiding it.

Moreover, if your dog isn’t eating nor drinking, that means he will lose important electrolytes, which come from the foods and liquids he’s supposed to ingest. These electrolytes are actually salt, potassium, calcium, and chloride, and not eating limits their intake. Plus, the fluid in your dog’s body contains cells, proteins, glucose, and electrolytes. That’s why fluid loss determines an electrolyte imbalance.

So why are electrolytes so important? Well, when they dissolve in your dog’s blood, they can either take a positive or a negative charge. That means they are responsible with creating the vital energy your dog needs to sustain his life. The crucial role of electric charges is keeping animals and humans alive, including the operation of our brains, nerves, muscles, and the creation of new tissue.

The last two symptoms (hemoconcentration and hypovolemic shock) are the most worrying, because they point to a life-threatening stage of your dog’s condition.

Hemoconcentration is diagnosed through blood tests, and it shows an increase in your dog’s red blood cells and solid matter in their blood. That leads to a decrease in the volume of plasma in relation to red blood cells and it’s caused by loss of fluid to the tissues. So, if you’re dog is dehydrated because of his diarrhea, losing not only fluids but also blood, he can get to the stage where hemoconcentration can be observed.

If your dog reaches hypovolemic shock, it’s because the lack of blood and fluids in his body make it impossible for the heart to continue pumping blood. That in turn can lead to multiple organ failure and at this point your dog’s life really is in danger. However, if things have escalated very quickly and you haven’t had the time to take him to the vet by now, which means he isn’t under medical supervision, you can notice the onset of hypovolemic shock by these signs:

• Anxiety or agitation.
• Confusion.
• Decreased or no urine output.
• General weakness
• Paleness around his mouth, nose and on the linings of his ears.
• Rapid breathing.
• Unconsciousness.

In fact, if your dog has reached the stage of hypovolemic shock and you suspect massive internal bleeding, the symptoms by which you can guide your conclusions – apart from bloody diarrhea – are:

• Abdominal pain.
• Black, tarry stool (melena).
• Blood in the urine.
• Vaginal bleeding.
• Vomiting blood.
• Chest pain.
• Abdominal swelling.

At this point the medical emergency is crystal clear, and you need to call an ambulance for your dog as soon as possible.

In the meantime, you can follow the advice listed below, as not to worsen your dog’s condition:

• Lay your dog flat.
• Keep him warm.
• DO NOT move him.
• DO NOT give him fluids through the mouth because he may choke.

CAUSES

Your dog’s bloody diarrhea can have a number of causes, but the truth is that this condition – also called hemorrhagic gastroenteritis – makes the list of medical mysteries. Vets admit that they can’t point to a single, certain cause in about 80% of the cases.

However, there are some things we do know about this illness.

First of all, this is an intestinal condition, which can prove life-threatening to your dog. It manifests itself mainly by the instantaneous beginning of a watery and bloody diarrhea that can also be accompanied by vomiting and by a number of other symptoms listed above.

If there is a serious inflammation of the intestines, then chunks of the intestinal lining can detach itself and can be noticed in the actual stool. The whole thing leads to extreme dehydration, hemoconcentration and electrolyte imbalance, and can become pretty serious as it really endangers your dog’s life. At this point, the hemorrhagic gastroenteritis has to be treated really fast or otherwise it will get your dog in the hypovolemic shock stage.

Another thing we know about this condition is that smaller dogs and puppies are predisposed towards it. In fact, the direct correlation between a dog’s size and the possibility of hemorrhagic gastroenteritis’s onset occurs because smaller dogs can become dehydrated faster. Since their bodies are more tiny, they don’t have the necessary blood, fluids and fat reserves to keep them alive for longer. Apart from this, dogs blessed with sensitive gastro-intestinal tracts have a higher probability or recurrence.

However, if this condition is treated effectively it will not negatively impact your dog’s future life.

The actual causes for bloody diarrhea are:

• Stress.
• Sudden dietary changes.
• Hyperactivity.
• An upset stomach from eating bad food.
• Inflammation of the colon (colitis).
• Internal parasites (such as roundworms).
• A viral infection (like parvovirus).
• A bacterial infection.
• An intestinal foreign body.
• Cancer.
• Allergies.
• Autoimmune disorders (such as inflammatory bowel disease).

Let’s take these causes individually and try to understand them better.

Stress and hyperactivity cause an irritation to your dog’s bowels. In fact, gastritis induced by stress is not uncommon at all. This illness can determine the onset of various erosions on your dog’s intestines or on their stomach. That’s what explains the apparition of blood in his stool. As such, if you know that your dog has been experiencing high levels of psychological stress, be sure to mention it to your vet.

Moreover, you can also look at the blood’s color. If it’s bright red, that suggests a problem with your dog’s stomach or small intestine. If the color is a brownish sort of red, that entails your dog’s problem is located in the large intestine or in the rectum.

Apart from this, sudden dietary changes are also a cause of irritation to the stomach or intestines, as well as dietary toxins which can likewise affect your dog’s immune system. Consequently, you should be very careful about your dog’s diet and know that not all human foods are good for dogs. It may also happen that your dog has accidentally eaten something from your dinner table which he shouldn’t have, like:

• Apple seeds.
• Avocado.
• Baby food.
• Cooked bones.
• Candies.
• Chewing gum.
• Chocolate.
• Fish.
• Grapes.
• Macadamia nuts.
• Milk.
• Mushrooms.
• Onions.
• Peaches.
• Plums.
• Tomatoes.
• Yeast.

Many of the above listed foods can cause toxins in your dog’s gastrointestinal tract, bloating and diarrhea. In fact, cooked bones are the most dangerous of them all because many dog owners don’t know they shouldn’t feed dogs that. This ignorance can be easily explained by all the images promoted in the media or in cartoons where a dog is happier when he gets a bone of his own to chew, eat or bury. Either way, an upset stomach from eating bad food is a very important cause that leads to your dog’s bloody diarrhea.

Another cause of hemorrhagic diarrhea can be colitis, which is an inflammation or irritation of the colon or large intestine and can be either acute or chronic. An acute colitis has a sudden onset, while a chronic one is recurring and lasts longer. You may suspect that your dog has colitis if he sometimes strains to defecate, while at other times he does it more than usual and presents blood in his diarrhea.

Moreover, the blood in your dog’s liquid poop may be caused by infectious agents called pathogens. The most common pathogens which trigger the onset on hemorrhagic diarrhea in dogs are:

• Bacteria (e.g., Campylobacter, Salmonella, Escherichia coli, Clostridia).
• Virus (e.g., Parvovirus, Canine distemper).
• Parasites (e.g., Roundworms, Hookworms, Tapeworms, Whipworms, Coccidia).

The bacteria listed above can infect your dog’s intestines and that’s how this type of diarrhea occurs. The Campylobacter is most commonly found in bad poultry meat; Salmonella comes from bad beef, poultry, milk, and eggs;  Escherichia coli (E. coli) is found in infected raw milk or in traces of contaminated stool your dog may have come in contact with, like the gas-causing Clostridia. E. coli and Salmonella can also be passed from animal to human or vice versa. Salmonella infections are likewise associated with reproductive disorders, which makes them more dangerous.

The virus named Parvovirus is responsible for a very contagious viral illness for dogs. If your dog has blood in his diarrhea, it’s more likely that he’s been affected by the intestinal form of this Parvovirus. Your dog can contract this virus either by coming into contact with an already sick dog, either by coming in contact with some infected feces. While most of the cases consist of young puppies, with an age ranging from 6 weeks to 6 months, the spreading of this virus has been drastically reduced lately because so many young dogs are vaccinated on time.

Canine distemper is an illness seen in dogs as well as other wild animals, like raccoons, wolves, foxes, and skunks. The virus causing it can be contracted by your dog either by direct contact, either by way of air. It behaves by firstly going for your dog’s lymph nodes and tonsils. After it reproduces there for about a week, the virus moves forward to your dog’s other systems: respiratory, uro-genital, nervous and gastrointestinal.

The parasites listed above can be contracted in the same way: by direct contact or by coming into contact with contaminated feces. Your dog shouldn’t be allowed to sniff or come near other dog’s feces, and you should also be very careful in handling his poop because people can get these parasites from their dogs too.

An intestinal foreign body can also be a very likely cause of your dog’s blood traces in his diarrhea. We’re talking about a physical obstruction of his gastro-intestinal tract, because maybe he swallowed a little toy or something he shouldn’t have eaten. That can very well scratch or rupture his stomachs or intestines, causing blood to appear in his stool.

Food allergies can be a very likely cause of bloody diarrhea for your dog. As we’ve previously listed the perilous foods your dog can eat, it’s also important to notice that some of them trigger a chronic form of illness known as Eosinophilic gastroenteritis.

Basically, we’re talking about an irritation of the gastrointestinal tract caused by allergens. The most likely allergens for your dog that can lead to this condition come from raw milk or other raw dairy products. Nevertheless, a connection has been observed between this type of gastroenteritis and eggs, pork, beef, and gluten-flour products.

Inflammatory Bowel Disease is the name given to a group of gastrointestinal diseases which swell the intestines and give chronic symptoms related to the gastrointestinal system. Doctors don’t know exactly what causes IBD, but it’s generally accepted that it comes as an uncommon reaction of your dog’s immune system to some bacteria that normally live in his intestines and that are actually good for your dog.

Either way, IBD is responsible for many dogs suffering, especially those who are middle-aged or older. If you own a Basenji, Lundehund, French bulldog or Irish setter, you should know that these breeds are prone to IBD.

Cancer of the colon or of the rectum may be another cause linked to your dog’s hemorrhagic diarrhea. The reason is that the said tumors can become irritated and rupture. Either way an environment full of feces like the intestines isn’t a very hygienic one, which may cause your dog’s tumor to act up and give him another unpleasant symptom to handle.

DIAGNOSIS

The vet will use a number of invasive and non-invasive procedures so that he can first be able to correctly see what causes your dog’s condition and to further see the extent to which this condition has evolved.

You may also be asked to answer some clarifying questions, so be ready with your dog’s medical history and vaccination record. The questions you should prepare yourself for are:

1. When did you first see signs of blood in his stool?
2. What color is the stool?
3. How frequently does he defecate?
4. Does he only have diarrhea?
5. Does your dog sometimes strain to defecate?
6. What color is your dog’s poop?
7. Did your dog eat something he shouldn’t have?
8. Do you normally feed your dog cooked bones?
9. Did your dog ingest a foreign object, like a small toy?
10. Is your dog agitated or stressed?
11. Does your dog have other symptoms, like vomiting?
12. Is your dog more lethargic than usual?
13. Does your dog eat and drink less than usual?
14. Does your dog have any other medical conditions, like a tumor, an ulcer or IBD?
15. Has your dog recently been in contact with other wildlife?
16. Has your dog recently been in contact with feces?
17. Is your dog vaccinated?

The tests that a vet can perform to further assess your dog’s condition are:

• Physical observations.
• Routine blood/ biochemical tests.
• Fecal Study.
• Radiography/ Endoscopy.

The physical observations consist of:

• A skin test for evaluating the level of dehydration.
• An abdominal palpation to see if your dog feels any abdominal pain and if there’s something stuck in his intestines
• An examination of mucus membranes to assess if there’s a blood loss and how serious that is.
• A check of his cardiovascular function and his pulse is very important, as it can indicate how dehydrated he is or how much blood your dog has lost.
• Visual observation of the vomit and/or stool to check for blood, color and consistency.

The blood test is typically a packed cell volume, also called a hematocrit test, which checks the proportion of your dog’s total blood volume that is composed of red blood cells. This test aims to find out the hemoconcentration we’ve previously talked about and how much red blood cells are in your dog’s body. The hematocrit test wants to further confirm if you’re dealing with a hemorrhagic gastroenteritis.

The biochemical test will check your dog’s internal organs, like the liver and the kidneys, as well as his total blood proteins and blood sugar. This test is looking to see if it can find an electrolyte imbalance in your dog’s body, which can aggravate his condition.

The fecal study consists of a stool sample which is checked for virus, bacteria or parasites that may explain the presence of blood in his stool.

If these tests don’t give any indication as what the source of your dog’s condition may be, a further radioscopy or endoscopy may be necessary, so the doctor can see more clearly if there is some mass or obstruction in your dog’s intestines. In fact, ulcers and tumors can be better observed using these techniques.

TREATMENT

Now that the hard part is over, the easy part may begin, which is the treatment. Happily enough, most dogs respond very well to treatment and their recovery time is pretty quick.

Depending on the causes mentioned above, the treatment consists of:

• Fluid therapy for dehydration.
• Electrolyte therapy for electrolyte imbalance.
• Antibiotics for infections.
• Corticosteroids for hypovolemic shock.
• Anti-inflammatory drugs for swollen intestines.
• Anti-parasitic drugs for parasites.
• Surgery for physical obstructions, ulcers and tumors.

That being said, in the future you should always take care of your dog’s diet to prevent other intestinal infections and disorders from happening. Reduce dietary irritants, like protein, and make sure to follow your doctor’s advice when it comes to allergenic foods. Moreover, your vet can make a sound diet plan for your dog’s nutritional needs taking into account the illnesses he’s had and the ones he’s prone to.

Read More